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Understanding Landlord Insurance

duda@secondgen.com — Mon, 06 Jun 2022 20:07:14 GMT

Turning your home into a rental or buying an investment property? Expect to pay up to 20% more for the right insurance policy to protect your property.

If you think a homeowners insurance policy will cover you when you turn your current home into a rental property or buy an investment property, think again.

Rental properties require their own type of coverage--landlord insurance, which is different than the homeowners policy you buy when you live in a house yourself. Landlord insurance protects you against losses from fire, lighting, falling trees, wind and hail, water damage, and injury to your tenants and their guests.

But it doesn't cover the renters' household goods. So encourage tenants to buy a renters policy to cover their stuff. You can even include a clause in your lease saying they have to buy renters insurance, so everyone is clear about what's insured and what's not.

Landlord Insurance Is Expensive

You'll pay 15% to 20% more for a landlord insurance policy than you will for a homeowners policy on the same — house and even more if you offer short-term rentals. Start your policy shopping by calling the company that sold you your homeowners insurance, then check with an independent insurance agent selling commercial and business policies.

Ask how you can get discounts if you have fire prevention devices, burglar alarms, or multiple properties.

What a landlord insurance policy probably will cover:

Lightning, windstorm, hail, explosion, riot and civil commotion, smoke, falling objects, snow, ice, sleet, vandalism, sonic boom, sprinkler leakage, frozen pipes, water damage, burglary, volcanoes, and sinkholes.
Things that belong to you that stay at the property, like appliances, furniture, or lawn care equipment. Keep an inventory of what's on site.
Outbuildings, like sheds or garages, although this coverage will have its own limit (probably 10% of the overall insurance policy amount).
Costs to defend yourself against lawsuits filed by tenants or guests, as well as the costs awarded if you lose the case. Some policies cover medical bills for injuries; some don't.
Lost rental income if the property is damaged and you can't rent it.

What a landlord insurance policy probably won't cover:

The tenants' belongings.
Your rental property if it's vacant for more than 30 days. Seek an exemption in advance from your landlord insurance company as soon as you know the property is going to be vacant.
War and nuclear, biological, chemical, or radiological attacks.

Optional coverage you might want to buy:

Flood
Earthquake
Vandalism (if the policy you buy excludes it)
Pool and tennis court insurance
Liability for personal injury, wrongful eviction, wrongful entry, libel, and slander

Don't Forget Liability Coverage

To cover yourself in case you lose a big court case filed by an injured tenant, buy an umbrella insurance policy that gives you liability protection for $1 million to $5 million or more if you have a lot of assets to protect.

Don't File a Claim Unless You Absolutely Have to

There's a limit to how many claims you can file before insurance companies start charging you more or canceling your policies. Claims can quickly add up as you buy more rental properties.

One time you always want to file a claim is when someone says they've been injured on your property. One claim you'll want to avoid filing: water damage for less than $10,000 because worries about mold growing in water-damaged properties will lead some insurers to immediately cancel your insurance policy.

Home Office Tax Deduction: 2 Very Different Ways to Claim It

duda@secondgen.com — Mon, 06 Jun 2022 20:01:52 GMT

One way lets you deduct home office expenses easily; the other is harder, but might mean a bigger deduction.

By: Donna Fuscaldo

If you're self-employed and work from home, you may be able to save some bucks at tax time by using the home office tax deduction. (If you work from home as an employee because your boss lets you telecommute, you can't take the home office deduction.) Here are two ways to claim it:

1. The complicated way. Fill out IRS Form 8829 — all 44 lines of it. Figure the proportion of your home's overall space devoted to your office and then calculate how much of your overall home expenses went toward your home office. Lots of math happening here.

An example: If your home office takes up 300 square feet in a 3,000-square foot house, you're using 10% of your home for your work. So you can take 10% of costs like utilities, homeowners insurance, homeowners association fees, security, and general repairs and maintenance.

Pro Tip: Not sure how big your house is? Check the documents you got when you bought your home — there's probably a detailed rendering. Or measure it. Or check your property tax bill.

2. The simplified way. Take $5 multiplied by your home office's square footage up to 300 square feet or $1,500 maximum deduction and, boom, you're done. You won't have to keep track of your actual expenses. Very little math happening here.

If you take the simpler math option, you may not be able to deduct as much as you can with the regular method. You can't depreciate your home office, for example. So consider the value of your time against potential tax savings if you believe you're eligible for more than the $1,500 cap.

Here are some other things you need to know.

What Counts as a Home Office?

A room or defined area of your home you use just for business. It can't double as your craft room or home gym. Also, that space must be your principal place of business, or the place where you see customers.

Pro Tip: If you use your home as the sole location of your business and store your inventory there, the place where you store your products does not have to be just for business. Let's say you run a business selling jewelry from a room in your basement.

If you store your jewelry inventory in another part of the basement that is separate and identifiable, you can deduct that space even if you use the rest of the basement as a man cave, home gym, or guest room.

What If You’re on the Road a Lot?

You don't have to do all your work from home to take the home office deduction. If you're a freelance journalist, you probably spend a lot of time outside of your office interviewing people. As long as your home office is essential to your business, and you spend substantial time there, doing your writing or other work, you're good.

What Else Is Covered Under The Tax Break?

Separate structures on your property, like a detached garage you've converted to an office or studio, are eligible for the home office deduction.

Unlike an office inside your home, a separate structure doesn't have to be your main place of business to qualify for a deduction. That's because the IRS believes your family is less likely to use a separate structure as a part-time play area or den, says Mark Luscombe, principal analyst for tax and consulting at CCH.

Are There Special Rules for In-Home Care Providers?

Why, yes. We're glad you asked. If you provide in-home daycare services for children, the elderly, or disabled persons as a licensed or authorized business, you don't have to use the space exclusively for the daycare business to take the home office deduction.

You calculate your deduction by dividing the number of hours you used your home workspace to provide daycare services during the year by the total number of hours during the year.

For example, if you do daycare 40 hours a week for 50 weeks a year, that's 2,000 hours a year, divided by the 8,760 hours in a regular year equals 22.8%. So you could take 22.8% of the ($1,500 maximum deduction — $5 per square foot times 300 square feet maximum) simplified deduction for your daycare workspace.

Don't Forget Depreciation, If You Use the Long Form

Depreciation is based on the idea that everything — even a home — wears out eventually. Here's how to figure out home office depreciation:

Add the home's purchase price to the cost of improvements.
Subtract the value of the land it sits on.
Multiply that cost basis by the percentage of your home used for work. This gives you the tax basis for your home office.
Divide by 39 years (this is the standard number required by the tax law.)

For example:

Purchase price: $100,000
Value of land: $25,000
Cost basis: $75,000, plus cost of improvements you’ve made
Tax basis: $75,000 x 10% = $7,500
Depreciation deduction: $7,500/39 years*

For a crash course on depreciation, tax to a tax pro or read IRS Publication 946. If you opt for reading the IRS pub, make a large pot of coffee.

Pro Tip: Depreciation deductions on your home office may increase the amount of profit on a home sale that's subject to taxes. Most taxpayers don't owe income tax on up to $250,000 of profit if you're a single filer, $500,000 for joint filers. Talk to a tax professional on how depreciation deductions affect your tax liability when you sell.

Related: How the Tax Law Affects Mortgage Interest and More

This article provides general information about tax laws and consequences, but shouldn’t be relied upon as tax or legal advice applicable to particular transactions or circumstances. Consult a tax professional for such advice.

How to Make An Offer Like a Boss

duda@secondgen.com — Mon, 06 Jun 2022 19:58:18 GMT

These 10 money- and time-saving steps can help you craft a winning bid.

Ah, the offer!

Know Your Limits Learn to Speak “Contract” Set Your Price Figure Out Your Down Payment Make an Earnest Money Deposit Review Contingency Plans Read the Fine Print Make a Date to Settle Write a Fan Letter to the Seller Brace Yourself for a Counteroffer

Cinematically speaking, this is the iconic moment — we’d forgive you if you imagined, say, putting a hand on your agent’s shoulder and whispering (in your best Vito Corleone) that you’re going to make them an offer they can’t refuse.

In reality, it’s not that simple (or dramatic). Your offer marks the beginning of a back-and-forth between you and the seller, typically with real estate agents advising you both.

The more intentional you are about your offer, the better your chances of making a successful bid. Follow these nine steps, and you’ll be well prepared — that’s a true story. (“The Godfather” again. We couldn’t resist.)

#1 Know Your Limits

Your agent will help you craft a winning offer. You can trust your agent’s advice on price, contingencies, and other terms of the deal: It’s a mutually beneficial relationship. The more collaborative you are with your agent, the more quickly you’ll be able to move.

But ultimately, it’s you who decides what the offer will be — and you who knows what your financial and lifestyle limits are. Buying a home means mixing strong emotions with business savvy, so now is also a good time to reflect on your “musts.”

Have a top limit to your offer price because you’re also saving for retirement and love beach vacations? Stick to it.
Want a vegetable garden or to paint your home’s exterior purple? Make sure your homeowners association rules permit it.
Besides reading HOA rules, find out how much the HOA has in reserves to cover common area repairs. You don’t want to be slapped unexpectedly with a special assessment.
Want a dog-friendly community? Make sure there are no pet weight limits preventing you from sharing space with your (extra-large) canine bestie.

#2 Learn to Speak “Contract”

Essentially, an offer is a contract. The documents and wording vary across the country.

In the spirit of due diligence, take time to review sample offer forms before you’ve found a house. (LawDepot.com has purchase agreements for each state.) If you’re high-maintenance, a real estate attorney can explain the documents to you so you’re familiar with their vocabulary when you’re ready to pull the trigger on an offer with your agent. Your agent will have offer forms for your state.

Explore More Topics:

Make an Offer & Negotiate

Buy a Home: Step-by-Step

#3 Set Your Price

Homes always have a listing price. Think of it as the seller’s opening bid in your negotiation to buy a home.

As the buyer, your offer will include an offer price. This is the first thing home sellers look at when they receive a bid.

Your agent will help you determine whether the seller’s listing price is fair by running comps (or comparables), a process that involves comparing the house you’re bidding on to similar properties that recently sold in the neighborhood.

Several factors can also affect your bargaining position and offer price. For example, if the home has been sitting on the market for a while or you’re in a buyer’s market where supply exceeds demand, the seller may be willing to accept an offer that’s below the list price. Or if the seller has already received another offer on the home, that may impact the price you’re willing to offer. Your agent will help you understand the context here.

#4 Figure Out Your Down Payment

To get a mortgage, you have to make a down payment on your loan. For conventional loans (as opposed to government loans), making a 20% down payment enables borrowers to avoid having to pay private mortgage insurance, a monthly premium that protects the lender in case the borrower defaults on the loan.

But 20% isn’t always feasible — or even necessary. In fact, the median down payment in 2021 for buyers overall was 13%, and 7% for first-time buyers, according to the National Association of REALTORS®. Your lender will help you determine what the best down payment amount is for your finances. Depending on the type of loan you get, you may even be able to put down as little as 0% on your mortgage.

You might qualify for one of the more than 2,400 down payment assistance programs nationwide. Many of them make funds available to households earning as much as 175% of area median income. In other words, middle-income households. And the savings can be substantial: Home buyers who use down payment assistance programs save an average of $17,766 over the life of their loan, according to real estate resource RealtyTrac. Find out more about down payment assistance programs in your state.

You can use an online mortgage calculator to see how different down payments would affect your mortgage premiums and how much you’ll pay in interest.

#5 Show the Seller You’re Serious: Make a Deposit

An EMD — short for earnest money deposit — is the sum of money you put down as evidence to the seller that you’re serious (read: earnest) about buying the house. If the seller accepts your offer, the earnest money will go toward your down payment at closing. However, if you try to back out of the deal, you might have to forfeit the cash to the seller.

A standard EMD is 1% to 3% of the sales price of the home (so, that would be $2,000 to $6,000 on a $200,000 loan). But depending on how hot the market is where you live, you may want to put down more earnest money to compete with other offers.

In most cases, the title company is responsible for holding the earnest money in an escrow account. In the event the deal falls through, the title company will disperse the funds appropriately based on the terms of the sales contract. Title companies also check for defects or liens on a seller’s title to make sure it can be transferred cleanly to you.

#6 Review the Contingency Plans

Most real estate offers include contingencies — provisions that must be met before the transaction can go through, or the buyer is entitled to walk away from the deal with their EMD.

For example, if an offer says, “This contract is contingent upon a home inspection,” the buyer has a set number of days after the offer is accepted to do an inspection of the property with a licensed or certified home inspector.

If something is wrong with the house, the buyer can request the seller to make repairs. But most repairs are negotiable; the seller may agree to some, but say no to others. Or the seller can offer a price reduction, or a credit at closing, based on the cost of the repairs. This is where your real estate agent can offer real value and counsel on what you should ask the seller to fix.

Just remember to keep your eye on the big picture. If you and the seller are bickering over a $500 repair to the hardwood floors, keep in mind that’s a drop in the bucket in relation to the size of the bid.

In addition to the aforementioned home inspection contingency, other common contingencies include:

A financing contingency, which gives home buyers a specified amount of time to get a loan that will cover the mortgage.
An appraisal contingency, where a third-party appraiser hired by the lender evaluates the fair-market value of the home to ensure the home is worth enough money to serve as collateral for the value of the mortgage.
A clear title contingency, where the buyer’s title company verifies that the seller is the sole owner of the property and can legally convey ownership to the buyer.
A home sale contingency, where the transaction is dependent on the sale of the buyer’s current home.

Although contingencies can offer protection to buyers, they can also make offers less appealing to the seller because they give buyers legal ways to back out of the sale without any financial repercussions. So, if you’re going up against multiple offers, making an offer with fewer contingencies can potentially give you an edge over the competition.

In other words: A chill offer is an attractive offer. But keep in mind you have to be comfortable with the risks that come with this strategy. If you don’t have a financing contingency, for example, and you can’t get a mortgage, you’d likely lose your earnest money deposit since you’re on the hook. (An outcome that’s decidedly un-chill for you.)

#7 Read the Fine Print About the Property

The sales contract states key information about the property, such as the address, tax ID, and the types of utilities: public water or private well, gas or electric heating, and so on. It also includes a section that specifies what personal property and fixtures the seller agrees to leave behind, like appliances, lighting fixtures, and window shades. The seller provides prospective buyers with a list of these items before they submit an offer. This can be another area of negotiation.

Carefully reviewing the property description also helps you know, for example, if the seller plans to take that unattached kitchen island with them when they move. (Stranger things have happened.)

#8 Make a Date to Settle

The sales contract you submit to the seller must include a proposed settlement date, which confirms when the transaction will be finalized. The clock starts as soon as the purchase agreement is signed. If you don’t close on time, the party that’s responsible for the delay may have to pay the other party compensation in the form of “penalty interest” at a predetermined rate.

A 30- to 60-day settlement period is common because it gives the typical home buyer time to complete a title search and obtain mortgage approval, but settlement periods can vary. Some sellers, for example, prefer a longer period so they have more time to move or look for their next house. Being flexible, with respect to the closing date, could give you more negotiating power in another area of the deal.

One thing that’s the same no matter where you live is that you’ll have a three-day period prior to settlement to review the Closing Disclosure, or CD — a five-page form that states your final loan terms and closing costs.

Once the sales contract is signed, the parties can change the settlement date if they both sign an addendum specifying the new day.

#9 Brace Yourself for a Counteroffer

If you’re making a lowball bid or going up against multiple offers, the seller may decide to make you a counteroffer — a purchase agreement with new terms, such as a higher sales price or fewer contingencies.

At that point, it’s up to you to accept the new contract, make your own counteroffer to the sellers, or walk away.